Suede differs from nubuck primarily in the side of the leather from which it is made: Nubuck is a premium quality leather that is sanded in the direction of the grain. (outside), whereas suede is leather without a higher quality layer , with the nap on the inside. As a result, nubuck has a short, dense, "peach-like" nap and is usually thicker and stiffer, while suede has a longer, more pronounced nap and a softer, more pliable texture.
To sum it up
- Nubuck is made by sanding the grain, or outer side, of the leather; suede does not have a grain.
- Nubuck has a very short, velvety pile; suede has a longer, "shaggy" pile.
- Nubuck is generally thicker and stiffer, while suede is softer and more flexible.
- Both materials are cared for in the same way: for rough leather, use a brush and impregnation, for smooth leather, polishing is not carried out.
What are nubuck and suede made of?
Animal skin has two sides: granular , the outer layer where the hair grows, and pulp , the inner layer adjacent to the skin. The granular portion has the densest fibers and is therefore the strongest part of the leather.
Nubuck — is a tanned soft leather (usually cow or calf) that has been finished on the grain side after a light sanding. This sanding raises the very short fibers, creating a velvety surface. The natural grain pattern often remains visible beneath the nap.
Suede (from the German word Sämisch ) is, strictly speaking, tanned leather without a grainy surface—soft, pliable, and absorbent. Traditionally, it was made from the hides of deer, elk, sheep, or goats, tanned with fat. In stores, suede is now usually referred to as rough leather with a nap on the inside, often also called velor . Thin, soft leather of this type, most often sheepskin, is called suede .
How to distinguish suede from nubuck? Appearance and feel.
Both materials are velvety to the touch and both change color when you run your finger across them, making them easy to confuse. However, upon closer inspection, the differences are noticeable:
- Pile length – Nubuck has a very short pile, almost like peach skin; suede has a longer, looser pile.
- Surface – Nubuck is smoother and more uniform, sometimes with a visible texture pattern; suede can be fluffier and uneven.
- Rigidity – Nubuck is usually thicker and holds its shape better; suede drapes and wrinkles more easily.
- Fingerprint – on nubuck it is barely noticeable, on suede it is usually more pronounced because the longer hairs lie more densely.
The most reliable source of information is the manufacturer's description or the material icon on the shoe label. It's also worth remembering that there are synthetic fabrics that imitate suede (so-called faux suede)—they are not genuine leather.
Suede or nubuck – which is more durable?
Because nubuck is made from full-grain leather, the most durable layer of leather, it tends to , thicker and more durable . This makes it a popular choice for hiking boots, work boots, and casual footwear. However, its short pile is sensitive to oil stains, and bright colors can fade in the sun.
Suede softer, lighter and more elastic , making it suitable for gloves, jackets, bags, and elegant shoes. However, it's easier to wipe clean, and its longer pile tends to clump and shine when rubbed. Both materials absorb water and, without impregnation, cannot withstand rain, snow, and road salt.
Comparison Chart: Suede vs. Nubuck
| Characteristic | Nubuck | Suede |
|---|---|---|
| Skin side | The front (outer) side is polished | No face; fluff on the flesh side. |
| Doze | Very short, compact | Longer, looser |
| Typical raw materials | Cowhide, calfskin | Sheep, goat, deer skins, as well as split cowhide. |
| Thickness and hardness | Usually thicker, holds its shape better. | Softer, more pliable |
| Sustainability | Mechanically superior | Lower, easier to wipe |
| Sensitivity | Grease stains, sun, water | Water, dirt, hair stuck together |
| Typical areas of application | Hiking and casual shoes, jackets | Gloves, jackets, bags, elegant shoes |
How to care for suede and nubuck?
The care for both skin types is very similar as they belong to the same group of so-called rough skin . The most important rules are:
- Before going outside for the first time, treat the product with a water-repellent spray designed for suede and nubuck, which will create a barrier against water and dirt; the treatment should be repeated regularly.
- Dry cleaning To remove dry dirt from rough leather, use a brush (rubber, crepe, or brass bristles), brushing in one direction. For nubuck, a softer brush is usually sufficient, as it has short bristles.
- Dry at room temperature – stuff wet shoes with paper and leave them away from the radiator; after drying, remove the lint with a brush.
- Do not use polishes or creams for smooth leather — they clog pores and stick hairs together, creating persistent shiny spots.
- To refresh the color Use spray dyes or conditioners designed specifically for rough leather.
To remove stubborn stains or clean expensive items, it's best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations or take the item to a specialized leather cleaner. It's recommended to test any new product on an inconspicuous area before using.
What to choose: suede or nubuck shoes?
If you are looking for casual shoes for long walks or active outdoor activities, nubuck will usually be the better choice – it's more durable and holds its shape better. For drier days, for more elegant outfits, and for gloves and jackets, a good choice is suede , as it's soft and comfortable to wear. Neither option is ideal for wet, snowy winters without a thorough water-repellent treatment.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is nubuck the same as suede?
No. Both materials have a velvety surface, but nubuck is a polished full-grain leather, meaning it's leather on the outside, while suede is leather without a grain layer, with a nap on the inside.
Which is better: suede or nubuck?
It depends on the application. Nubuck is generally thicker and more durable, making it better suited for everyday footwear. Suede is softer and lighter, making it suitable for gloves, jackets, and shoes.
Can you soak nubuck and suede?
Both materials absorb water, which can leave stains and make the leather feel stiff. They should not be washed or soaked; they should be treated with a water-repellent agent, and dirt can be removed with a brush or products designed for rough leather.
Can you use the same brush for nubuck and suede?
Yes, both materials can be cleaned with a leather brush. However, for nubuck, it's best to use a softer brush and apply less pressure, as it has shorter bristles.
What is the difference between velour and suede?
In the trade, both terms are often used interchangeably to describe rough leather with a nap on the grain. Strictly speaking, suede is leather traditionally tanned with fat, while velour is a general term for leather buffed to a velvety nap.
See also
- What is the difference between knitwear and woven fabric?
- What is the difference between Emu and UGG?
- What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain?
- What is the difference between over the knee socks and stockings?
